1. General Lamination Guidelines

1. If a frame or laminate sheet is applied to one side of the board, the same should be applied to the opposite side to maintain balance.
2. When using the board for ceiling or partition applications, adequate support must be provided. Do not paint or varnish only one side of the board.
3. Use laminates of the same thickness, same brand, and same batch on both sides of the sheet.

4. Adhesive (Glue) Selection

• PUR Hot Melt (Recommended): Provides strong bonding, fast curing, and excellent moisture resistance.
• PU (Two-Component): Provides a strong bond and is highly suitable for thicker laminates.
• Solvent-Based Adhesive: More economical, but has a higher risk of warping.
• Water-Based Adhesives (Avoid Completely): The moisture content can cause the sheet to warp easily.

5. Lamination Process - Sequence

1. Apply adhesive to Side A.
2. Apply adhesive to Side B.
3. Laminate Side A.
4. Immediately turn the sheet over.
5. Laminate Side B.
6. Press both sides with uniform pressure.

6. Causes of Warping

The primary cause of warping is uneven tension created on both sides after lamination.

• Difference in the time taken to laminate both sides.
• Variations in adhesive quantity or curing.
• Uneven temperature and pressure during lamination.
• Differences in laminate quality.
• Internal stress present in the WPVC sheet.

2. Unloading, Handling & Storage

Proper unloading and storage prevent structural bowing, surface scratches, and edge/corner damage.

A. Manual Unloading (Hand Handling)

• Carry the boards vertically (on edge) rather than flat to help prevent bending or warping.
• Do not drag the boards against each other or across the truck bed, as this may damage the surface.
• Wear clean gloves when handling white boards to prevent dirt, sweat, or oil stains from contaminating the surface.

B. Immediate Stacking and Storage

• Immediately after unloading, stack the boards neatly on a clean, flat, and level surface and store them in a suitable location.
• For long-term storage, place supporting wooden runners underneath the boards at 50–60 cm intervals to prevent sagging or deformation.
• Do not lean unpalletized boards vertically against walls, as this may cause warping or distortion.
• If the boards are stored outdoors, cover them with an opaque sheet to protect them from direct sunlight and excessive heat.

3. Cutting Techniques

PVC and WPC foam boards can be easily cut using standard woodworking hand tools and power machinery.

A. Power Tool Method

• Use a circular saw or jigsaw fitted with a sharp blade suitable for cutting plastic materials. A swing cutter may also be used where appropriate.
• Select a motor with the recommended RPM for cutting PVC/WPC boards.
• Secure the board firmly on a stable workbench to prevent vibration during cutting.
• Allow the blade to cut naturally, and guide the tool steadily. Do not force the saw or push it too quickly, as excessive friction can overheat the material and damage the cut edges.

B. Intricate Designs and Cutouts

• Use a jigsaw or CNC router for complex decorative lattice patterns, circles, and curves.
• Drill a 10 mm starter hole inside the waste area first before executing internal cuts.
• High temperatures cause PVC to scorch, yellow, and deform.

C. Edge Finishing

• Smooth away burrs or rough edges using fine-grit sandpaper (220 to 400 grit). Sand evenly with gentle pressure to avoid scratching the surface faces.

4. Drilling & Screwing

Pre-drilling is mandatory to accommodate thermal expansion and prevent material splitting.

A. Fastener Selection

• Use sharp-threaded woodworking screws, twin-fast screws, or plastic-fastening screws.
• Use stainless steel or coated exterior screws for outdoor or high-moisture areas.
• Do not use drywall screws or tapered nails as they lack holding power in the foam core.

B. Drilling Preparation

• Drill a pilot hole before inserting each screw.
• Maintain a distance of 20 mm to 50 mm from the edges to prevent them from splitting.

C. Screw Fixing

• Torque Setting: Keep the drill on a low torque setting.
• 90-Degree Angle: Drive the screw strictly at a precise 90-degree angle.
• Avoid Overtightening: Overtightening the screw will crush the internal foam cells and strip the hole.
• Hardware Selection: Use screw sets and hooks that match the specific weight and span requirements.

D. Hiding Screw Heads

• Use PVC screw caps or plugs for a clean finish.

5. Cabinet & Cupboard Assembly

Hinge and Hardware Installation

• Use parallel-thread screws or Euro-screws. Angling screws at 90 degrees (slanting them) is not suitable.
• Using a screw plug (wall plug/anchor) in the drilled hole is ideal for better grip.
• Use hinges with an appropriate holding capacity suited for tall or heavy doors.

6. Structural Spans & Load Limits

• Using a straightener will be beneficial to prevent boards over 6 feet in length and 3 feet or more in width from bending.